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Post by micro on Feb 6, 2017 8:25:31 GMT -5
If you want the kits to be competitive out of the gate wouldn't you need machined wheels and tungsten? You think you could get all that for $15? The wheels then pose a problem as different rules for different packs. What are your thoughts about what would be included in the kits?
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 6, 2017 11:10:12 GMT -5
If you want the kits to be competitive out of the gate wouldn't you need machined wheels and tungsten? You think you could get all that for $15? The wheels then pose a problem as different rules for different packs. What are your thoughts about what would be included in the kits? Well, wheels are probably one thing that I don't think there's any real way to disrupt the industry on. As far as I can tell, you're basically paying for time spent on a lathe by an operator, and there's no way that I know of to work around that. I would LOVE to see an inexpensive tool to allow practical self-working of wheels. Like, DW's wheel shaver, but actually usable. If anybody has ideas about that, I'm all ears. For tungsten, I was actually thinking that a second kickstarter could be created to front-load enough funds to bulk buy enough tungsten to sell it at the rates that gravitymafia was unloading it for...or cheaper. I think it's pretty apparent that tungsten prices are an artificial markup, and there's no reason that needs to continue. |
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 12, 2017 14:31:49 GMT -5
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 12, 2017 20:49:55 GMT -5
It looks pretty good.
I noticed a possible typo.
Part of this project will be producing freely distributable video documentation showing how to best prepare your car's wheels and axles to effective (effectively) run with oil lubrication.
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 13, 2017 18:24:01 GMT -5
Professor Moriarty , thanks for the verbiage suggestions. Hopefully I'll be able to review and merge them tonight. Been chatting with micro about his namesake applicators, and I think that they would be a great addition to the kit, for both oil and wax application. I can also get them a lot cheaper than no-scratch applicators, so it's a cost-saver, too. I'll be sure and give credit in the how-to video. Do you guys have any thoughts about the brand of wax to use? I was originally thinking Blackfire, because it's the latest and greatest, but this post by Spacewalker has me reconsidering. Maybe I should go with Rejex...or...Legends? Of course, the latter is spendy, so I might have to increase the cost a little to cover it...but it'd still be a lot cheaper for anybody wanting to use it than buying a $100 bottle on their own! Have also been giving consideration to the products for dispensing the product. For the wax and bore polish, I am considering something like these. For the oil I want needle bottles, probably like these. Figure I can print labels on an inkjet for the initial run. If it takes off, I might want to outsource that. Any thoughts at this point?
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 13, 2017 18:54:34 GMT -5
Hey VK,
Can I have a credit too? I am not sure for what... but I will come up with something!
You really have to stop posting links to places that Laserman is banned from pal... It gets frustrating.
Maybe someone can create a fake account to let the banned fellas in?
Oh hell... who cares?! It is for scout races! This is entry level stuff here... keep your eye on the ball VK. Just get the wax that is the cheapest of the ones mentioned.
Dunno how big those wax jars are, but the smaller... the better.
It takes like 2 drops of wax to prep a set of wheels... probably want the jar to be opaque though?
I am thinking something like those glass jars for That Carmex lip balm.
It doesn't need a fancy way to dispense, as it is put onto a q tip anyway... so just dip it in, or scoop a drop out from it.
Oil bottle looks good I guess... Fellas need a fluffy pipe cleaner or two, and a half dozen Tamiya swabs also... apologies if those are already on the list... just thinking aloud.
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 13, 2017 20:07:49 GMT -5
Hey VK, Can I have a credit too? I am not sure for what... but I will come up with something! You really have to stop posting links to places that Laserman is banned from pal... It gets frustrating. Maybe someone can create a fake account to let the banned fellas in? Oh hell... who cares?! It is for scout races! This is entry level stuff here... keep your eye on the ball VK. Just get the wax that is the cheapest of the ones mentioned. Dunno how big those wax jars are, but the smaller... the better. It takes like 2 drops of wax to prep a set of wheels... probably want the jar to be opaque though? I am thinking something like those glass jars for That Carmex lip balm. It doesn't need a fancy way to dispense, as it is put onto a q tip anyway... so just dip it in, or scoop a drop out from it. Oil bottle looks good I guess... Fellas need a fluffy pipe cleaner or two, and a half dozen Tamiya swabs also... apologies if those are already on the list... just thinking aloud. Hells yeah, you get credit too, Joe! Don't think I'd leave you out, man. Are you unable to read public posts on APR? I know you can't login, but it isn't private. Need to get you a proxy set up or something. I want to obviously keep costs down, but I also want to offer the best goods for the money. Do you think a wide-mouth jar would do better than a flip-top plastic bottle? I guess either could conceivably work. Also, if they are going to use the microbrushes for wax application, do you think I still need the Tamiya swabs? |
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Post by micro on Feb 13, 2017 22:25:17 GMT -5
Yes, you need the swabs too.
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 13, 2017 23:14:24 GMT -5
Yes, you need the swabs too. Are the swabs for bore polishing? |
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 13, 2017 23:15:58 GMT -5
I usually just buff out the wax with one of those pointy Tam swabs that I forced thru a spare wheel...and don't bother with the fluffy pipe cleaner...
I buff it by hand, without a drill.
but that is me.
What say you MB? You are a fan of the pipe cleaner. right?
I also use those pointy mah-fahs to clean out the extra wax near the business end of the things.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 13, 2017 23:27:54 GMT -5
OK... for the Youtube video I am thinking...
#1... test for axle straightness in a drill.
#2... test for wheel goodness by spinning on a good axle.
#3... 4 oz of tungesten and a minimal body.
oh... sorry... This is just about wheel prep. My bad.
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 14, 2017 22:08:06 GMT -5
OK... for the Youtube video I am thinking... #1... test for axle straightness in a drill. #2... test for wheel goodness by spinning on a good axle. #3... 4 oz of tungesten and a minimal body. oh... sorry... This is just about wheel prep. My bad. I think we should focus on axle and bore prep for the first phase of the game. Here's what I think the video should cover - Deburring (or grooving) of BSA axles - Polish BSA axles with sandpaper strips of increasing fineness. - Spray axles with silicone dry lube (sadly, we can't provide this in the kit!) - Wash wheels in Dawn (they'll have to get their own Dawn) - Use provided plastic polish and tamiya swab to polish bores (sounds like part no. 87106 is the way to go for these swabs) - Wash wheels again - Use a microbrush to apply a coating of wax to wheel bores, let haze and buff with a segment of fluffy pipe cleaner, puff out with canned air - After wax is cured, use a different microbrush to apply a thin layer of Krytox to wheel bores and possibly axles (thinking under the heads is most important there). - Install wheel and axle onto car body Thoughts on that? Any places where we can improve the process to make it more effective or user friendly? |
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 14, 2017 22:52:20 GMT -5
I don't clean my wheels so much with the Dawn.
I just get in there with a Tam swab that I previously squashed thru a spare wheel. (I will call this tool the squashed Tam)
Then I blow it out with canned air. Have you ever heard of "The Naked Chef"?...I am the naked builder.
Let that wax cure for 24hrs is the word on the street.
They must have a magnifying glass of sorts in the house... maybe including one of those dirt cheap ones that come with an eyeglass repair kit.
I never heard of putting the oil on the wheel and axle separate. I heard that you marry those two and put a drop right at the point of consummation.
Maybe a cheap Chinese needle file to remove the flashing by the head. I think those can be bought in mass rather cheaply.
I hold the BSA axle in my hand and remove just the flashing. Then I put it into a rotational tool and taper the head and make a small "firewall" where the shaft and head meet.
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Post by Vitamin K on Feb 15, 2017 7:46:55 GMT -5
I don't clean my wheels so much with the Dawn. I just get in there with a Tam swab that I previously squashed thru a spare wheel. (I will call this tool the squashed Tam) Then I blow it out with canned air. Have you ever heard of "The Naked Chef"?...I am the naked builder. Let that wax cure for 24hrs is the word on the street. They must have a magnifying glass of sorts in the house... maybe including one of those dirt cheap ones that come with an eyeglass repair kit. I never heard of putting the oil on the wheel and axle separate. I heard that you marry those two and put a drop right at the point of consummation. Maybe a cheap Chinese needle file to remove the flashing by the head. I think those can be bought in mass rather cheaply. I hold the BSA axle in my hand and remove just the flashing. Then I put it into a rotational tool and taper the head and make a small "firewall" where the shaft and head meet. Given the abrasive nature of the bore polish, I am rather eager to wash it off thoroughly before continuing to the wax step. What's the item # of the Tamiya swab that you "squash" before cleaning the bore with? I've heard if you're doing multiple coats of wax, you can recoat in as little as 4 hours, but the final coat should be allowed to cure overnight (though 24 hours can't be bad). Regarding the oil application technique, I have always personally just done the "drop on the axle just before mating followed by a wheel spin to distribute". However, I like the idea of using the microbrush to spread a thin film, since I suspect that beginners are going to be more prone to over-oiling. I actually thought about procuring needle files. The main issue I have encountered is that they are always sold in variety packs of 6 or 8, as opposed to individual pieces. If you can find individual files sold in bulk, I'd be interested in strongly considering their inclusion. |
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 15, 2017 11:20:49 GMT -5
You are fortunate to be speaking with the laziest prep man in the hobby VK!
I skip that whole novus step. The polystyrene is so soft that it will buff with a brown paper bag.
I usually just spin it on a squashed TAM a bit to polish the plastic. I try different things for the hubs (Novus or micro mesh)... mostly li just use a dry paper towel on the inner hub these days.
For the axles... I have heard that whole thing about the box axles being preferred... but lazily I often just grab some revel axles and skip the step of filing the flashing.
Wheel/ axle prep is one of the few times that I embrace the philosophy "less is more"
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