|
Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 13, 2018 12:26:51 GMT -5
Joe, I was really worried about upsetting you... Lemme stop ya there, man. If that's a worry of yours, you won't get anywhere. Do your thing, and if Joe gets upset, that's on him. Well said VK, Dont worry pal. I’m not upset... I’m just disappointed. Lol!!! Just kidding. That car is your to do with as you will. Enjoy the process and don’t stress.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 13:25:30 GMT -5
Filler Primer followed by lots of careful sanding. Is it perfect? No. That would require a lot more filler, primer, sanding and likely weight. This is designed to get the worst out. When I have gone for perfect it got all beat up first race. So, this is good enough. What I’m going to do next may seem crazy. But, I think it will give the same desired weight loss without having to cut the car from the sides (and add back coverings).
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 23:36:30 GMT -5
Weight before the next phase w
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 23:40:02 GMT -5
The reason I chose not to cut out additional squares is the prior repaired breaks at the spar. The balsa is so thin you can see the spar thru it. So, I really don’t think cutting it out and then putting a cover back over it would net a significant weight loss to warrant the loss of structural integrity. The thin balsa top will help strengthen an area where I will likely need to hold in order to insert and remove axles. Now to the crazy/brave/nail biting (if you’re in to that) part: The first pic you can see I drilled small holes along the bottom of one fender to very near the inside of the top. I then drilled small holes on the other side. I then went to a larger size, blew it out and weighed it again. Then I drilled the largest size I was going to drill. I would have went larger, but the edges of the lower fenders were a rough not straight edge when I received it. And, the repair I added to the one side is wider, but I didn’t want to drill thru the thin edge below it and get air it the pocket from below. Then I took a cut off wheel and cut between the holes. Next I ground out deeper and wider with the dermal. Finally I filed things out as smooth as I could. Difficult as the whole thing flexes and I didn’t want to punch through. I also do not want to add CA glue or get any paint in the pocket. The added weight would likely negate the weight reduction.
|
|
|
Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 14, 2018 5:39:56 GMT -5
An interesting approach.
I’m not saying that I am sold on the idea...
But it seems worthy of exploration.
|
|
|
Post by Sugar Creek Racing on Jun 14, 2018 8:25:16 GMT -5
Geometry wise, this is very similar in layout to Katie's MA Flame car.
The COG on hers was about .9 in front of the rear axle.
I'm interested to see how much that shifts with the balsa construction.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 14, 2018 9:25:27 GMT -5
This is a tease. I know what Joe was thinking, but only because of the sketch that was left on the side of one of the "pontoons".
You shouldn't have to be sold. Strictly speaking I followed your instructions. So, you don't have to look here is what you said, "either punch holes or hollow them out leaving a framework to stretch a cover over..."
PS This process was more difficult and nerve racking on this car then my concept, because the fenders (if you don't remember see first pictures in the thread) were glued vertically in the middle.
|
|
|
Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 14, 2018 12:47:44 GMT -5
Geometry wise, this is very similar in layout to Katie's MA Flame car. The COG on hers was about .9 in front of the rear axle. I'm interested to see how much that shifts with the balsa construction. I was thinking the same thing, Frank. The major differences are the material and that you constructed your pontoons from a few pieces rather than hollow out after the fact. Eagle, I see that you quoted me from a post but... As is often the case when chatting with you... you interpreted what I said differently from what I meant... I had not considered hollowing out from below and above... though I did notice PWDCNC had a similar idea for his Concept Car... I have never anticipated seeing a car run as much as that car he is building.
|
|
|
Post by Sugar Creek Racing on Jun 14, 2018 13:09:26 GMT -5
Prophet, the flame car was machined out and then the pontoons glued to the side of a machined tub. The corn car was stick built though.
Machining before is probably easier than what Eagle just accomplished (Eagle, my respect for doing what you did and not ending up with kindling (clapping sound in background))
Here are a couple reference pics for how our similar build started out.
That central tub was machined out of a solid block (including the inner pontoon sides) I don't ever want to do that again. It is what got me looking at stick building as an alternative to most machining. I feel I can be more delicate with more of a guaranteed result building from dimensioned stock than machining at this scale.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 14, 2018 15:04:24 GMT -5
Sugar Creek Racing: Interesting tid bit: When I click on your pictures it gives me a larger version in a different rotation.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 14, 2018 17:50:57 GMT -5
It looks like I didn’t get a picture of next step. I painted the visible surfaces with white primer/paint like coffinnailracing did in video www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOKj0VgEnzk&feature=youtu.beI then made a V with tape to split the car (breaking up the long flat surfaces. This was followed by three thin/light coats of pink tint. That brings us to the photo. I wish my other car wasn't totaled. I hate watching paint dry. And, apparently I'm not big on wheel polishing (as that is what I should be doing).
|
|
|
Post by coffinnailracing on Jun 15, 2018 3:00:15 GMT -5
It looks like I didn’t get a picture of next step. I painted the visible surfaces with white primer/paint like coffinnailracing did in video www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOKj0VgEnzk&feature=youtu.beI then made a V with tape to split the car (breaking up the long flat surfaces. This was followed by three thin/light coats of pink tint. That brings us to the photo. I wish my other car wasn't totaled. I hate watching paint dry. And, apparently I'm not big on wheel polishing (as that is what I should be doing). Paint looks good so far, just remember to TEST your clear coat of something other than the car.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 15, 2018 9:27:04 GMT -5
coffinnailracing it would be horrible to get to the end of this detailed paint job and have the clear mess it up. I have had to sand down and start over on other builds. But, fortunately the only other paint job I had with this many stages was Wonder Woman. And, with her I attempted to do clear between stages. On full scales it helps if something goes wrong, you just sand back a stage. But, on PWD it is difficult to wait long enough for paint to cure. Patience plus a couple days is key. But, it also adds too much weight for PWD.
I should ask: what type of clear did you use in your PWD paint video? Was it acrylic? enamel? It looked like it was Design Master. I don't recognize the can.
|
|
Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Eagle on Jun 15, 2018 23:54:20 GMT -5
I masked the front of the car to allow roughly half of the pink tinted area to be painted with Candy Sage (cap is pink metallic). I stuck a few other maskings in. If you look close you’ll see them. Otherwise, if you wait a bit they should jump off the car in a few steps. Now things are going to get interesting. My originally planned sticker over the holes does not really match the paint. It was supposed to be for unfinished wood look. So. I will have to decide to change the paint a little bit and make the two windows see thru. Or, if I will go ahead with the sticker and see if I can blend it in. Either way will be cool, but it may effect what I do next. It is difficult to paint thru the window area matching the top (without extra masking and painting from the bottom.
|
|
|
Post by coffinnailracing on Jun 16, 2018 22:08:49 GMT -5
You got the "$" symbols, put a dollar under the windows and Clear tape the tops of the windows 😁
|
|