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Post by Ember on Jan 25, 2020 14:14:57 GMT -5
I've had good and bad wheels from all the major vendors except Jewkes, I've never had a bad wheel from him.
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Post by castororacing on Jan 27, 2020 14:23:24 GMT -5
I've had good and bad wheels from all the major vendors except Jewkes, I've never had a bad wheel from him. Ember have you tried the BSA derbyworx axles before. Just want to see if they would be effective for box stock or in the NYC race.
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Post by Ember on Jan 27, 2020 19:20:20 GMT -5
I used their 4 groove axle with graphite at the NYC race. I think the 2 groove is touted as a better oil axle. I've used their SS Viper's as well, they are nice axles, their .088 shaft works well with holes drilled for BSA sized axles. Their BSA axles are, well BSA axles, so they are not on par with a machined SS axle, but they work ok if you're stuck with BSA and graphite. Mine run about .087, so you're gonna need pretty tight gaps, and preferably wheels with smaller than average bores. To meet the mind boggling rules of the NYC race, I drilled the steer with a Micro 5th bushing, so I had to cut one down because it started to poke through the top of the car at full length. For some reason the front axle also has a very small, almost imperceivable bend in it , go figure.
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Post by castororacing on Jan 27, 2020 20:27:54 GMT -5
I used their 4 groove axle with graphite at the NYC race. I think the 2 groove is touted as a better oil axle. I've used their SS Viper's as well, they are nice axles, their .088 shaft works well with holes drilled for BSA sized axles. Their BSA axles are, well BSA axles, so they are not on par with a machined SS axle, but they work ok if you're stuck with BSA and graphite. Mine run about .087, so you're gonna need pretty tight gaps, and preferably wheels with smaller than average bores. To meet the mind boggling rules of the NYC race, I drilled the steer with a Micro 5th bushing, so I had to cut one down because it started to poke through the top of the car at full length. For some reason the front axle also has a very small, almost imperceivable bend in it , go figure. Thanks for the info its appreciated. I will pick some up. We are in NYC and made the race last year. Unfortunately my sons car was torn down pre race and they put it back together w huge gaps. Plan on moving to the pro stock division to hopefully avoid this. Well I guess we need get there first. To avoid the axle from poking out I have also had luck shimming the front and the rears. Shimming the front .010 helped avoid the axle from coming out. Good to know about those impercievable bends!
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Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jan 27, 2020 20:29:19 GMT -5
Surely it came that way!
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Post by Ember on Jan 27, 2020 21:15:21 GMT -5
Surely it came that way! Yeah, it may have been straight at one time, but it eventually went back to being bent, like muscle memory.
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Post by Ember on Jan 27, 2020 22:05:46 GMT -5
I used their 4 groove axle with graphite at the NYC race. I think the 2 groove is touted as a better oil axle. I've used their SS Viper's as well, they are nice axles, their .088 shaft works well with holes drilled for BSA sized axles. Their BSA axles are, well BSA axles, so they are not on par with a machined SS axle, but they work ok if you're stuck with BSA and graphite. Mine run about .087, so you're gonna need pretty tight gaps, and preferably wheels with smaller than average bores. To meet the mind boggling rules of the NYC race, I drilled the steer with a Micro 5th bushing, so I had to cut one down because it started to poke through the top of the car at full length. For some reason the front axle also has a very small, almost imperceivable bend in it , go figure. Thanks for the info its appreciated. I will pick some up. We are in NYC and made the race last year. Unfortunately my sons car was torn down pre race and they put it back together w huge gaps. Plan on moving to the pro stock division to hopefully avoid this. Well I guess we need get there first. To avoid the axle from poking out I have also had luck shimming the front and the rears. Shimming the front .010 helped avoid the axle from coming out. Good to know about those impercievable bends! The folks that run the NYC race may have good intentions, but they are completely clueless, they have ruined what was once a good thing. Pro Stock or Stock, they are equal opportunity offenders. One of the gentlemen who runs the event told me flat out that they don't want the event to be "too serious".... well they should consider mission accomplished.
You should be cautious using any kind of washers or spacers there, it's just one more excuse for a subjective tear down or DQ. Under no circumstances cut tuning grooves in your axle heads, they get a stiffy when they see those.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jan 28, 2020 0:36:55 GMT -5
Thanks for the info its appreciated. I will pick some up. We are in NYC and made the race last year. Unfortunately my sons car was torn down pre race and they put it back together w huge gaps. Plan on moving to the pro stock division to hopefully avoid this. Well I guess we need get there first. To avoid the axle from poking out I have also had luck shimming the front and the rears. Shimming the front .010 helped avoid the axle from coming out. Good to know about those impercievable bends! The folks that run the NYC race may have good intentions, but they are completely clueless, they have ruined what was once a good thing. Pro Stock or Stock, they are equal opportunity offenders. One of the gentlemen who runs the event told me flat out that they don't want the event to be "too serious".... well they should consider mission accomplished.
You should be cautious using any kind of washers or spacers there, it's just one more excuse for a subjective tear down or DQ. Under no circumstances cut tuning grooves in your axle heads, they get a stiffy when they see those.
Don’t even get me started on those fuckers, Ember. Castoro... the only plan over there is to fly under the radar... Pretty sure they sabotage anything that looks pro. Best to show up with a SpongeBob looking car... with fucked up looking fenders.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jan 28, 2020 0:43:14 GMT -5
Pretty sure they follow the forums... so you’re probably already screwed...
Don’t think they are over here though.
Definitely not on the speed team...
Last time I competed there... check in guy said...
“Puma eh? ... We’ve been waiting for you.“ Lol!
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Post by Ember on Jan 28, 2020 1:17:07 GMT -5
LOL...the year we were there running wheel weights they wanted to DQ us, even though at the time there was nothing in the rules banning them. Ultimately they couldn't DQ us, because I showed them earlier emails I had with Dave, the head honcho, saying they would be legal.
The dumb bastard inspecting the car said he couldn't see inside the wheel, I told the hero to turn the car over, that the weights don't cover the whole wheel, and that he could look inside. You know what the hump says?...."yeah, but how do I see the other half of the wheel"...I actually had to explain to the dunce that all he had to do was spin the wheel.
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Post by oobigfish on Jan 30, 2020 16:23:38 GMT -5
Received my Jewkes wheels today. Man they are light. 1.25 grams roughly per wheel. They have more flex to them than the MV wheels. They are nice and round, and run very smoothly on a 93 axle. Can’t get an accurate reading on the inside tread surface though because the wheels flex on the inside rim when I put them on the runout gauge. The outer hub is certainly cleaner than the MV wheels.
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Post by Ember on Jan 30, 2020 18:03:00 GMT -5
Received my Jewkes wheels today. Man they are light. 1.25 grams roughly per wheel. They have more flex to them than the MV wheels. They are nice and round, and run very smoothly on a 93 axle. Can’t get an accurate reading on the inside tread surface though because the wheels flex on the inside rim when I put them on the runout gauge. The outer hub is certainly cleaner than the MV wheels. How thick is the tread? IMO anything under .020 has too much flex. There's three times the force on the wheels through the curve, so if you have 4 ounces on your rear wheels on a scale, there's 12 ounces on them at the end of the curve, that's a lot of weight for a thin tread. From my experience, a wheel with too much flex will never be fast.
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Post by oobigfish on Jan 30, 2020 18:37:47 GMT -5
Received my Jewkes wheels today. Man they are light. 1.25 grams roughly per wheel. They have more flex to them than the MV wheels. They are nice and round, and run very smoothly on a 93 axle. Can’t get an accurate reading on the inside tread surface though because the wheels flex on the inside rim when I put them on the runout gauge. The outer hub is certainly cleaner than the MV wheels. How thick is the tread? IMO anything under .020 has too much flex. There's three times the force on the wheels through the curve, so if you have 4 ounces on your rear wheels on a scale, there's 12 ounces on them at the end of the curve, that's a lot of weight for a thin tread. From my experience, a wheel with too much flex will never be fast. They measure .025 on my caliper.
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Post by whodathunkit on Jan 30, 2020 18:53:54 GMT -5
Might be if you run them with the inside hub out.. keeping more of the wheel mass towards the car body!
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Post by Ember on Jan 30, 2020 20:17:36 GMT -5
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