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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 21, 2017 0:33:11 GMT -5
Ok...I am about to release the most beautiful PWD product anyone has ever seen... These X4-Mr.B fenders took every ounce of skill that I possess... and I think that even the Ballwasher will clearly admit that this is a considerable amount.
Sooooooo.....
I go over over to the Derby Evolution site to see what fenders are selling for these days... and I see the Knotty Wheel Runout Gage.
This naturally please me to no end... Knotty is one of the few fellas on these forums that is a professional machinist... I had picked up a runout gage from Owens Racing but when I met Donald Knott and he showed me the runout gage that he came up with ... it seemed more like a designed piece... often machinists products have a super precise jig-like quality to them, but Don’s runout gage is more like a product... really thought-out.
He is is a great guy and top notch craftsman...and his product sorta got overlooked for a while.
I never look that deep into wheels anymore... but he mentioned once that a runout gage is the best way to separate wheels... even before you turn them on the lathe.
anyway...
After that I look at what Joel is charging for fenders, and I am fairly impressed with the prices.
But Joel... hunny...
the fenders “WEIGH .8g” ...
they don’t “WEIGHT .8g”
saw that typo all over the place on the Derby Evolution site...
just sayin.
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Post by Ember on Dec 21, 2017 10:32:08 GMT -5
Heck, I just bought a set of Valkyries, if I knew you had something new in the pipeline I would have waited a bit longer.When will these be available?
I have the Knotty Gage ...it's a nice little piece that really lets you weed out marginal wheels.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 21, 2017 22:26:44 GMT -5
Don explained to me that the wheels with the most runout will also be more out of balance even after turning them on a lathe...
I am assuming he meant BASX wheels, because I am thinking that after lightening them by removing material under the tread... it may even it back out a bit?
Anyway...
Thanks for the Valkyries purchase, Ember... Those babies will not disappoint.
I am very proud of these X style full body fenders that I created...
Unfortunately, I am having difficulty uploading the design to Shapeways. (I surmise that last minute Christmas makers are overloading the Shapeways sjite)
As soon as I get it onto the site I will send a coupon code for you to get the first set ever produced at cost. If I get it on there quick enough, then you can tack it onto your Valkyries order to save on shipping cost too. Fingers crossed.
These fenders will make building a LightninBoy style car about as easy as creating a BASX.
EDIT: GOt them on the Shapeways site! I even put a link (widget) at the bottom of this forum.
I am going to raise the price in 12 hours and 52 minutes... so please order ASAP.
Thanks again,
Joe
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Post by Ember on Dec 22, 2017 0:12:09 GMT -5
Thanks L-M......I ordered the Valks a couple weeks ago and have already received them. I really like the
aesthetics, and feel the overall design is aerodynamically superior to most fenders.The texture is a little
more coarse than I expected, but I'm sure I can smooth them out a bit.
I bought them for our current Scout build that will feature a 5/8" rear axle location, along with a Scout legal
4-3/8" wheel base. I was hoping the fenders would be long enough to span the entire distance from the front
wheel to the front of the car....they look like they will fit perfect, it's as if you designed them for just that set-up.
I will probably order a set of the new X4's as well, they look very promising !!
Are you making your fenders with a radius for wheels in the 1.170 range?
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 22, 2017 0:13:06 GMT -5
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 22, 2017 0:32:55 GMT -5
Thanks L-M......I ordered the Valks a couple weeks ago and have already received them. I really like the aesthetics, and feel the overall design is aerodynamically superior to most fenders.The texture is a little more coarse than I expected, but I'm sure I can smooth them out a bit. I bought them for our current Scout build that will feature a 5/8" rear axle location, along with a Scout legal 4-3/8" wheel base. I was hoping the fenders would be long enough to span the entire distance from the front wheel, to the front of the car....they look like they will fit perfect, it's as if you designed them for just that set-up. I will probably order a set of the new X4's as well, they look very promising !! Are you making your fenders with a radius for wheels in the 1.170 range? Hi Joe, Yep... I always make my fenders so that they fit a stock wheel with a clearance of about .03". These new ones are set up for a 4.75" wheel base on a right hand DFW... but I plan to upload versions in 4.375" WB... and maybe 4.5" and 5" too... as well as offering left handed DFW option for fellas that swing their car that way. (not that there is anything wrong with that) I'm glad you like the Valkyries! There are vaious techniques for smoothing out the texture on the "strong and flexible" prints... but Shapeways recently started offering a polished version of the strong and flexible material which could cut out some of that extra work.... same price too! |
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Post by Ember on Dec 22, 2017 0:51:20 GMT -5
Polished would be the ticket !
With the Valks, have you thought of having two of the six fenders have a 3 degree mounting surface?
I don't think it would be very difficult to just taper them by hand,or simply fill the gap with ca, but
it would be a nice touch to have a built in taper for the rear mounted units.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 22, 2017 1:06:10 GMT -5
Polished would be the ticket ! With the Valks, have you thought of having two of the six fenders have a 3 degree mounting surface? I don't think it would be very difficult to just taper them by hand,or simply fill the gap with ca, but it would be a nice touch to have a built in taper for the rear mounted units. Good point Ember. I used to make fenders with the angle... and the new ones do have the angles on them... dunno why I didn’t do it for the Valkyries. I may have to revisit that design for some modifications. Input is always appreciated. I usually sand the strong and flexible material fairly aggressively first... it takes down the texture quite a bit and can reduce overall weight... after that I will use a gel CA glue on it... Gorilla Brand CA glue is my go-to. Thin CA will just be absorbed by the material... but the gel stays on the surface to create a candy coating. Most times I use a CA glue accelerator like Zip Kicker to make sure that the gel just stays in the surface and does not absorb... but I think it is probably unnecessary. |
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Post by Skippy Kicky on Dec 30, 2017 19:33:20 GMT -5
I just received a set of these. Wow! I'm super impressed. These look sweet! I can't wait to build a car with them. Thanks for making them available. Strong work!
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Post by micro on Dec 31, 2017 8:09:43 GMT -5
I just received a set of these. Wow! I'm super impressed. These look sweet! I can't wait to build a car with them. Thanks for making them available. Strong work! What do they weigh? |
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Post by Ember on Dec 31, 2017 10:13:00 GMT -5
Joe...what angle is the DFW side fender ?...it looks like about 5-6 degrees that tapers back to straight an inch or so behind the DFW?
Also, I'm assuming the design is for a modified 5/8" rear axle and not the standard 7/8" ?
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 31, 2017 15:27:21 GMT -5
I just received a set of these. Wow! I'm super impressed. These look sweet! I can't wait to build a car with them. Thanks for making them available. Strong work! Thanks Jason! I’m glad you like them. So far I have only printed them on my home printer but I know that Shapeways prints them lighter. Do you know what they weigh? Thanks again, Joe |
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 31, 2017 15:30:36 GMT -5
Joe...what angle is the DFW side fender ?...it looks like about 5-6 degrees that tapers back to straight an inch or so behind the DFW? Also, I'm assuming the design is for a modified 5/8" rear axle and not the standard 7/8" ? I set them up for an aggressive camber of 7* with a modest 1* of toe in. Yes... these fenders are built for a body with a wheelbase 5/8” from the rear, and 4.75” from axle to axle. |
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Post by Ember on Dec 31, 2017 16:28:47 GMT -5
Okay, great thank you. I think you can bend up to 8* or so before the axle wont fit through the bore, I know a lot of guys like to run 5-6*, so 7* should be a great compromise.
I'm assuming the front DFW fender has a straight, non angled mounting surface, and the 7* is all in the sweep of the fender?
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Dec 31, 2017 16:50:40 GMT -5
Okay, great thank you. I think you can bend up to 8* or so before the axle wont fit through the bore, I know a lot of guys like to run 5-6*, so 7* should be a great compromise. I'm assuming the front DFW fender has a straight, non angled mounting surface, and the 7* is all in the sweep of the fender? Yep... they are all set to stick onto a BASX car with squared off edges. The weight of them may be deceptive though... since I capped the inside of the rear fenders as well as the dominant side fenders up front... I figured that leaving a little extra weight by capping the rear fenders won’t make too much difference all the way back there. |
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