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Post by oobigfish on Feb 11, 2019 2:24:59 GMT -5
Hello Laserman Forum!
New to Pinewood. My cub just had his first race a couple weeks ago finishing 1st den and 3rd overall. We have districts coming up and I have a few questions I’m hoping you guys can help with. Our cars we built for the pack race where good cars looking over the videos we were getting beat on the downhill portion nearly every race and making up time to win heats due to very little to no wobble on the flat part of the track. I’d like to get a better jump off the line for districts.
When using a axle press, what order do you go in? Do you remove the flashing and and ribs first or straighten and cone prior to removing the burs? Do you polish to completion before straightening/coning/bending?
This is our first three wheel rail rider attempt. On your DFW where do you typically start your orientation of the marked nail? Also the DFW should steer toward the raised wheel or should the raised wheel be riding the rail?
Is there a better amount of steer for metal tracks Vs. wood tracks? The pack race was on a wooden track but I understand the district race track is metal.
When using lemon pledge on you axles how long should it be left on the axle, and is there a best practice around when to apply the pledge prior to race day?
During our pack race we used Maximum Velocity graphite and really loaded up the hubs before we handed in our cars which after doing some more reading may have not been a good idea. I purchased some Hob-e-lube for the district race. I plan to burnish with the maximum velocity and use the Hob-e-lube on race day. Should I add more graphite on the day of the race and if so do I need to do something to get the car race ready? Anyone have a link to share or some sage advice for how and when to apply the graphite post burnishing would be awesome!
Sorry for all the questions, really want to improve our game at the next race. Thanks for the add!
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 11, 2019 5:19:34 GMT -5
Oh boy...
It looks like Big Fish has that rapid fire style of asking questions that Eagle favors.
Hey Big Fish,
Good to have you over here.
Let’s start at the beginning...
How long until the district race and do you have a copy of the rules?
Screw that axle press... I don’t think anyone over here uses one of those.
Best,
Joe
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Feb 11, 2019 8:02:07 GMT -5
BTW...
I noticed on the FB forum that you mentioned you drilled your axle holes at 2.5*
Do you have a link for this drill jig?
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Post by Sugar Creek Racing on Feb 11, 2019 8:06:23 GMT -5
Professor Moriarty is correct.
Copy of the rules is step one.
Also, some of the guys over here aren't Facebook people. Would you repost here a couple pics of the cars?
Welcome!! |
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Post by micro on Feb 11, 2019 8:53:25 GMT -5
Hello Laserman Forum! New to Pinewood. My cub just had his first race a couple weeks ago finishing 1st den and 3rd overall. We have districts coming up and I have a few questions I’m hoping you guys can help with. Our cars we built for the pack race where good cars looking over the videos we were getting beat on the downhill portion nearly every race and making up time to win heats due to very little to no wobble on the flat part of the track. I’d like to get a better jump off the line for districts. When using a axle press, what order do you go in? Do you remove the flashing and and ribs first or straighten and cone prior to removing the burs? Do you polish to completion before straightening/coning/bending? This is our first three wheel rail rider attempt. On your DFW where do you typically start your orientation of the marked nail? Also the DFW should steer toward the raised wheel or should the raised wheel be riding the rail? Is there a better amount of steer for metal tracks Vs. wood tracks? The pack race was on a wooden track but I understand the district race track is metal. When using lemon pledge on you axles how long should it be left on the axle, and is there a best practice around when to apply the pledge prior to race day? During our pack race we used Maximum Velocity graphite and really loaded up the hubs before we handed in our cars which after doing some more reading may have not been a good idea. I purchased some Hob-e-lube for the district race. I plan to burnish with the maximum velocity and use the Hob-e-lube on race day. Should I add more graphite on the day of the race and if so do I need to do something to get the car race ready? Anyone have a link to share or some sage advice for how and when to apply the graphite post burnishing would be awesome! Sorry for all the questions, really want to improve our game at the next race. Thanks for the add! I don't use an axle press. If I couldn't use vendor axles I would use the revel axles as they are more straight and lack the crimp marks. Not sure what you mean about DFW starting orientation. Usually a good starting point for steer is 4" over 4'. You steer the DFW into the rail. On a wood track I would have a little more steer. Just spray the pledge on and wipe off. I am not an expert on graphite. |
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Post by oobigfish on Feb 11, 2019 10:45:08 GMT -5
Oh boy... It looks like Big Fish has that rapid fire style of asking questions that Eagle favors. Hey Big Fish, Good to have you over here. Let’s start at the beginning... How long until the district race and do you have a copy of the rules? Screw that axle press... I don’t think anyone over here uses one of those. Best, Joe Rules are really open, just the rules that come out of the PWD kit. |
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Post by oobigfish on Feb 11, 2019 10:47:17 GMT -5
Professor Moriarty is correct.
Copy of the rules is step one.
Also, some of the guys over here aren't Facebook people. Would you repost here a couple pics of the cars?
Welcome!! Happy to, couldn’t figure out how to add pics on he phone. I’ll try on a computer later today. |
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Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Feb 11, 2019 12:06:45 GMT -5
Hey Wes, Answers in CAPS to set apart. When using a axle press, what order do you go in? Do you remove the flashing and and ribs first or straighten and cone prior to removing the burs? Do you polish to completion before straightening/coning/bending? MOST HERE WON'T USE AXLE PRESS BECAUSE THEY ARE USING AFTERMARKET AXLES. IF YOUR JUDGING ALLOWS THEY WILL BE FASTER AND EASIER TO WORK WITH. IF PURCHASING YOU EITHER HAVE TO PURCHASE STRAIGHT, THEN POLISH, THEN BEND - OR BUY ALREADY DONE. THE LATER SEEMS PRICIER, BUT IT TAKES A LOT OF DIFFERENT THINGS AND TIME TO GET RIGHT. I RECOMMEND 92'S WITH GROVES, A TUNING SLOT, AND A BENDING GROOVE FOR GRAPHITE. 93'S IF YOU ARE RUNNING OIL. This is our first three wheel rail rider attempt. On your DFW where do you typically start your orientation of the marked nail? Also the DFW should steer toward the raised wheel or should the raised wheel be riding the rail? NO ONE HERE HAS SEEN THE SECOND WAY. I HAVE ASKED AND THEY ALL THINK IT IS NUTS. I HAVE YET TO ATTEMPT. BUT, WE WILL HAVE A WAY TO TEST BEFORE TO LONG. I SUSPECT IT WILL BE FASTER, BUT I WOULD NOT USE UNTIL PROVEN OUT. Is there a better amount of steer for metal tracks Vs. wood tracks? The pack race was on a wooden track but I understand the district race track is metal. 4" OVER 4 ' IS A GOOD PLACE TO START. THERE IS NO REAL WAY TO GET A CAR PERFECT WITHOUT THE TRACK YOU ARE RACING ON, TIME, AND A LOT OF PATIENCE. ADDITIONALLY, IT IS NOT WOOD OR METAL THAT DETERMINES THE AMOUNT OF STEER. IF THE TRACK IS NOT SMOOTH AND THE SECTIONS ARE NOT PERFECTLY ALIGNED YOU ARE BETTER OFF RUNNING STRAIGHTER. STRONG STEER WILL HIT EVERY MISALIGNMENT. THE STRONGER THE STEER THE HARDER THE HIT. THAT BEING SAID DISTRICT RACES AND ABOVE TEND TO HAVE A 4 LANE BEST TRACK THAT IS WAY BETTER THAN WOOD. SO, GO WITH 4" OVER 4'. When using lemon pledge on you axles how long should it be left on the axle, and is there a best practice around when to apply the pledge prior to race day? NEVER USED. I'M GUESSING THAT IS OLD SCHOOL. BUT, I WOULD LOVE TO LEARN MORE MYSELF. During our pack race we used Maximum Velocity graphite and really loaded up the hubs before we handed in our cars which after doing some more reading may have not been a good idea. I purchased some Hob-e-lube for the district race. I plan to burnish with the maximum velocity and use the Hob-e-lube on race day. Should I add more graphite on the day of the race and if so do I need to do something to get the car race ready? Anyone have a link to share or some sage advice for how and when to apply the graphite post burnishing would be awesome! THE PACKING MAY HAVE SLOWED YOU INITIALLY. BUT, YOU SHOULD HAVE SEEN YOUR CAR TIMES GET FASTER AND FASTER AS THE GRAPHITE WAS BURNISHED IN. THERE ARE MANY WHO SAY GRAPHITE IS GRAPHITE. IT IS NOT. I WOULD RUN THE MAX V OVER THE HOB-E-LUBE. IF YOU HAVEN'T OPENED THE HOB E LUBE I WOULD TAKE IT BACK. THERE ARE BETTER "GRAPHITES" AVAIL. AND, YES I WOULD GRAPHITE WHENEVER ALLOWED. BUT, REMEMBER IF NOT DONE WELL THIS COULD SLOW YOU NOT SPEED YOU UP. Sorry for all the questions, really want to improve our game at the next race. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO ASK MY STYLE YOU WILL FOLLOW THIS WITH JUST AS MANY QUESTIONS - LOL. AND THE ONLY WAY, WITHOUT YOUR OWN HOST, TO GET PICS UP IS TO ADD THE TAPATALK APP TO YOUR PHONE. I WAS SLOW TO DO THIS. ONCE I DID IT MADE PICTURES ON THE FORUM A SNAP AND IT KEEPS YOU UPDATED (BASED ON YOUR SETTINGS. |
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Post by ironband on Feb 12, 2019 0:51:21 GMT -5
When using lemon pledge on you axles how long should it be left on the axle, and is there a best practice around when to apply the pledge prior to race day? NEVER USED. I'M GUESSING THAT IS OLD SCHOOL. BUT, I WOULD LOVE TO LEARN MORE MYSELF. A lot of people say to leave it on for 15 minutes and then wipe off. However, I have seen no difference in performance vs. axles I left for 15 minutes to "marinate" and axles that I sprayed on and then wiped off immediately. Scientifically this makes sense, since the axle is not porus and can't really "absorb" anything and the pledge doesn't have VOCs or solvents that need to evaporate (like Jig-a-loo) before being installed. The active ingredient seems to be the silicone, and that doesn't break down appreciably over short periods of time (like weeks). Our last race we pledged, applied graphite, spun on the wheels, applied graphite, installed the wheels, tuned, and put in a box a week before the derby. My son applied some graphite and spun the morning of the race for good measure (I was traveling on business), and we set track records (until the stop section threw the car one too many times and killed our alignment, but that's another story). |
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Post by Chuy on Feb 12, 2019 10:27:52 GMT -5
A lot of people say to leave it on for 15 minutes and then wipe off. However, I have seen no difference in performance vs. axles I left for 15 minutes to "marinate" and axles that I sprayed on and then wiped off immediately. Scientifically this makes sense, since the axle is not porus and can't really "absorb" anything and the pledge doesn't have VOCs or solvents that need to evaporate (like Jig-a-loo) before being installed. The active ingredient seems to be the silicone, and that doesn't break down appreciably over short periods of time (like weeks). Our last race we pledged, applied graphite, spun on the wheels, applied graphite, installed the wheels, tuned, and put in a box a week before the derby. My son applied some graphite and spun the morning of the race for good measure (I was traveling on business), and we set track records (until the stop section threw the car one too many times and killed our alignment, but that's another story). Pledge uses both butane and propane. Mixed with silicone, they should take a little bit to evaporate off. |
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Post by ironband on Feb 12, 2019 21:22:15 GMT -5
Pledge uses both butane and propane. Mixed with silicone, they should take a little bit to evaporate off. Butane and Propane are both gaseous at room temperature and standard pressure. Evaporation of those will be near instantaneous unless you are applying in sub-zero conditions. |
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Post by Chuy on Feb 12, 2019 21:45:22 GMT -5
Pledge uses both butane and propane. Mixed with silicone, they should take a little bit to evaporate off. Butane and Propane are both gaseous at room temperature and standard pressure. Evaporation of those will be near instantaneous unless you are applying in sub-zero conditions. So is the carbon dioxide (gaseous @ STP) in a soda but you don't see it coming out of solution BTW, these are the same hydrocarbons that JigALoo has (isobutane and propane) and Jig is also a silicone lubricant. |
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Post by Chuy on Feb 12, 2019 22:20:56 GMT -5
To avoid these issues, I can provide you some hydrocarbon free silicone. I have 1cst, 2.5cst and 5cst
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Eagle
Goodfella
Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Feb 12, 2019 23:00:16 GMT -5
Chuy, I wish to know more. Here, PM or text me please. I'm more than a little curious.
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Post by ironband on Feb 13, 2019 0:05:27 GMT -5
Perhaps, but I don't think that the solubility of hydrocarbon gasses in a silicone matrix is nearly as high as that of CO2 in water. I'd do some research, but...
The point appears to be moot. I just pulled out my can and discovered that the hydrocarbons are gone in favor of nitrogen. Apparently SC Johnson has decided to move away from petroleum based propellants in their products, at least here in the US. So perhaps this is why I haven't melted my wheels...
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