Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 12, 2018 17:40:46 GMT -5
Sorry, I don't see a way to rotate the images on Tapatalk, but I think you get the idea. If not you'll have to rotate your viewing screen.
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Post by Sugar Creek Racing on Jun 12, 2018 17:50:02 GMT -5
Eagle, if you figure out that image rotating thing please post it. I'm guessing that it is the physical side of the phone that is up is remembered in the photo and there is no software here to tell it to flip it around based on which side of the phone you were actually holding up at the time. Hope that made sense...
Edit: I think if you keep the "ear piece" of the phone up when you take the photos, they will import right side up, I need to do a test.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 12, 2018 17:55:19 GMT -5
When I upload them to the computer I can rotate them. I was hoping I could do that on the forum. But, I do not see a way.
I know I can take them upright or square. But, I like to take picture lengthwise.
We'll keep figuring this thing out.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 12, 2018 18:18:40 GMT -5
So, even though Joe and I like the unfinished wood look, I do not see how I am going to be able to smooth out the balsa, add balsa to the bottom and front of one side, extend the top rear of one fender so that they match and for me add built in inner fenders/shields without allowing for body work and paint. In addition that light penciling on the side will not sand out. So this car will be painted. So, I am going to add weight. Hopefully, I will be able to take some out to balance out what I add. And/or the better aero makes up for the added weight. Here are some pictures with the added balsa. I tapered the top rear of the other fender. So, they both match tapering down from the front to the rear. You can also see where I inset the axle spar and just where the wheel turns in. There is not enough body to do any more. But, I think this will work. I also tapered the nose of each fender on the inside. Ok... let’s just slow down and take a breath here... Add paint!!! That is totally antithetical to the design! to get rid of the pencil markings... try an eraser.
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Eagle
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Post by Eagle on Jun 12, 2018 18:51:40 GMT -5
Attempted eraser first. Then I used a little sand paper. Not sure if it is the depth or if there’s sealer of some kind over top, but not coming out. And the lines, even if I cut a similar pattern will still be present as they cross over the body where I wouldn’t cut out.
I have a vision now. This boat is headed down river.
No worries I can build one like you envisioned. And, if it weren’t for posting up here and a little difference in wood grain thru the center of the sides, unless you flipped it over and got a good view of the under belly you would not know the difference.
Send me or post up your sketches and or directions and I will do my best. I believe it will be stronger, lighter, and easier to leave el natural. I could put windows in it or leave the center open entirely.
My prototype is 11.7g final will likely be in the 15g area. Not sure what your thoughts are with the white paper coverings. Maybe it could be covered entirely with Monokote. I’ve not seen any videos on pinewood cars or objects with this many angles etc. Not sure where the seams would be.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 0:07:41 GMT -5
Here are some pics with body work on flat surfaces. (both before and after inner fenders/shields installed and thin CA to harden up ). You can also see where I squared up the back of the damaged/thin fender.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 13, 2018 0:11:05 GMT -5
Hi Eagle,
You saw my post on the thread Riverboat Gambler, right?
That was like 3 paragraphs on my thoughts about it...
First glue in a row of cubes behind the axle spar...
Paint a thin layer of Thick CA glue on the joint between body and fenders.
Drill a pattern of holes into the sides of the pontoons at depth.
Punch out more rectangles from the body and then paint on thick CA on the remaining framework of the body...
Toss a cover on the vertical sides of the trailing fenders.
Trim the cover A hair shy of the top and bottom edges of the pontoons and near the wheels...
Make the cover some colored translucent plastic / acetate like the kind that goes on a book report...
Make it the red acetate and you won’t be able to see the pencil lines in between the holes...
Toss a clear cover of acetate on the top and bottom of body.
Somewhere in there if you wanna make balsa shields then put a stick or two of balsa like 1/16” thick going from front of car to cover the front wheel. I would prolly just use one of those clear shields that Micro makes...
Rear wheels... Cub Weights with clear tops. Raised wheel is reversed so cover the open outside of it with acetate or balsa or something...
DUN
Use double stick tape on the entire piece of acetate...
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 13, 2018 0:15:23 GMT -5
What is that red stuff on it?
It is lookin like a Bondo job on a Sanford and Son jalopy.
hold on! Does that say 21g?
ok.. I see...
it was 21g but you sanded it back to 17g...
but still... it started at 14g...
Sorry to armchair quaterback here but...
I think that you are headed in the wrong direction.
We want to get that thing lighter.
About the paper and dope... fellas make paper box kites and even remote control planes using tissue paper and dope. it is the lightest cover out there... lighter than minimize even... but I think Monokote or acetate is plenty light as is.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 0:33:14 GMT -5
This body being super thin balsa would make sanding bondo impossible. It is body putty. And, if you can still see it - it is filling a low area. The three darkest areas are repaired cracks mentioned earlier.
If I wanted to do a rat rod look I could, but this is just a step. This is going to be one wild ride. Think pontoon boat, meets cigar boat, meets Las Vegas, meets George Barris Kustoms.
I have already shaved off some of the back to bring the car to 7". I am inclined to leave the rest as there is no reason to take any more off (unless I want to add extra weight behind the standard, and it will help support the rear structure of the car.
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 13, 2018 1:13:11 GMT -5
I added to my previous post.
Is it Nitrostain?
If the wood looks like it is weak or about to crack then toss a little CA in there...
You can even out any highs or lows with a cover... no need for Nitrostain... unless you are still hung up on the idea of painting.
These little cars are like chess... after you formulate a plan.... it should be carried through unwaveringly...
Switching plans midway is half measures.
Reduce... less is more...see if you can get it below 10g
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Post by Professor Moriarty on Jun 13, 2018 1:23:21 GMT -5
But yes... definitely leave the cover on the weight cavities and don’t remove any more from the rear...
You are right there at 7”... that is where you want it.
If the car really becomes too weak and brittle then I have a trick for that.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 9:16:14 GMT -5
Joe,
I was really worried about upsetting you, hence the other thread. Once you green lighted the project I developed a picture in my mind. Here is what I knew and a little insight as to how I formulated my plan.
I knew: the name. what the car looked like in the form I received it. I shouldn't have posted pic of car on scale first, but it is what I had. I was going to have to add weight to get car into what I thought was a finish able state. car was fragile (at least to me).
What I didn't know: Back story on name. Who CamCar and DHS are. What kind of "boats" they ran/run. Original plan. How fragile this car appeared. What the name originated from. Why work stopped.
What I envisioned (based on name etc): A Glass bottom boat a gambling scheme
What has changed (in process): went from attempting to finish with natural wood look to a planed paint scheme.
I've learned things in my prior concept that would make the car you envisioned easier to build and stronger than the current car. And if all balsa - lighter. But, I believe with a CNC I could do the frame in pine and still be lighter and stronger in the end.
Another nugget:"after you formulate a plan.... it should be carried through unwaveringly...Switching plans midway is half measures."
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Post by Vitamin K on Jun 13, 2018 9:40:02 GMT -5
Joe, I was really worried about upsetting you... Lemme stop ya there, man. If that's a worry of yours, you won't get anywhere. Do your thing, and if Joe gets upset, that's on him.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 10:23:00 GMT -5
Simple facts: No two builders are going to see or do things exactly the same way.
If they did this would have gotten boring decades ago.
I can not control what Joe is going to do. I can only control what I’m going to do.
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Eagle
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Posts: 2,228
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Post by Eagle on Jun 13, 2018 10:26:33 GMT -5
Hopefully I’ll end up with a really cool fast race car.
If not, I (hopefully we) will have learned things.
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